As we ascend higher breathing has been difficult and appetite noticeably reduced. Labored breathing during the day and most certainly gasping for air all night. Oxygen up here is less than half of what I get at home (600 ft vs 17,000 ft elevation).
Almost everyone has a mild headache, some form of a cold and cough. Ben has it the worse. He caught some dust in his lungs from our accilikitization hike in Dingboche. (see what I mean, I can't even spell words correctly)
It is very cold here (39F-41F) 2 days of really unpleasant weather (very very cold nights) lie ahead of us. My headache is better and my KPIs came really good (O2 sat 94, Heartrate:74) We are lodged at the New EBC Guest House. The sun outside is very misleading - it looks warm but its cooooold. I think I will be wearing all my clothes !!
We arrived Gorakshep around 11:45am. A lot of people passing thru these lodges and its tight quarters, communal bathrooms etc. We've been advised to keep our nose and mouth covered as often as we can to avoid getting a bug. I don't know how we can avoid any of the sh*t thats floating around here!!
Had lunch followed by an optional hike up Kala Patthar. This is the tallest mountain one can climb without a permit. Ofcourse I went - its part of the goal why I am here. The altitude, mild headache and lack of oxygen slowed me down significantly. I was extremely slow - inhaling one step, exhaling for the other. Names on the prayer flags and all those who have encouraged me all along is what kept me going. I often would look up to see if I could spot Jason and others in our group, for a little encouragement. I knew that I was not going to give up. I finally made it to the summit - 18,500 ft. We stayed up there for around 25 mins then started our descend. Along the way we got great views of Everest and other peaks with the golden sunset shining off them.
I was completely wasted physically and mentally. I am not a big fan of long steep descends. My heel acts up, my quads and knees get stressed. Well, during this descend I lost my footing and slipped, tweaked my right knee and over stretched my left hip (sorry Daisey, did not share this earlier) I got up dusted myself and started walking. The exciting part of the descend was ….well see the pics below "what glitters here is GOLD". I came down the mountain and was overcome with emotions and cried (Maa, this one was for you) Harjit and Sherpa Kalden were right besides me giving me hugs and walked with me to the lodge.
Exhausted, headache and now a tender knee in my mind, I went to bed at 6:45 pm. Woke up around 11pm then tossed and turned through the night. Goal 1 achieved, tomorrow is goal 2: EBC.
The heat stove in the dining was not working because they did not have enough fuel (fuel = yak dung and wood). I have a renewed appreciation for the little comforts we can afford in our life by the flip of a switch or an App.
The sleeping arrangements were bare at best. Everything built of plywood. My bed was slanting down to the left. Constant struggle all night to keep my sleeping bag and blanket from sliding. Turns out the entire lodge is tilted!!
Eyes on the prize, tomorrow!!